The Wine Spot
Since the disappearance of The Grapevine in the Cedar – Fairmount shopping district, Jeff has struggled to buy wine. Bob at the Grapevine was a great help and always stirred him to the best bottle for the money, even while money was never pushed. After having helped with his wine selections over 20 years, he understood Jeff’s palate and made wonderful recommendations. In the subsequent months, wine purchases have been hit or miss. Most of the bottles bought at the Legacy Village Giant Eagle were a disaster. He found a few lucky breaks at Zagara’s wine area, but mostly because he remembered the names and labels from past conversations with Bob. A young man at Whole Foods recommended a delightful bottle of Thief Pinot Noir, but when he went back to talk with him again, he wasn’t around. Such are the problems with corporate retail, especially with something as complex as wine. So it was with a great deal of enthusiasm that Jeff welcomed the news of a new wine store taking over the Seitz-Agin storefront on Lee Road.
From the moment Jeff entered the store, he was made to feel welcome. The owner Adam Fleisher greeted him and discussed the store, his philosophy on wine and beer and some of his preferences. Jeff explained his history with wine and the price levels he prefers. It was an engaging conversation and the two began to assemble a case of wine to replenish his severely barren rack.
The Wine Spot is different than the Grapevine in that Mr. Fleisher has wine from around the world and Jeff has spent 20 years concentrating on wines from western USA (California, Oregon and Washington.) He was going to need a lot of help and Fleisher was willing to provide it. If the first bottle sampled is any indicator, this looks like it will be an excellent relationship. Eve a Chardonnay from Washington State (you’re right, he didn’t stray too far from his comfort zone on the first bottle!) was about as close to perfect as Jeff has had. It was crisp, clean and with just a touch of effervescence. He can’t wait to crack the next bottle!
If you live in the Heights (like us!) have found uneven service and selection at the local supermarkets and miss the Grapevine, the long, dark days are over. The Wine Spot is now here. Give the Spot a shot! We’re sure they will steer you in the right direction, as they did for Jeff.
http://thewinespotonline.com/2271 Lee Road Cleveland Heights,OH 44118 216-342-3642
La Strada
Located on the powerhouse East 4th Street strip of culinary Cleveland, between Michael Simon’s Lola’s and Jonathan Sawyer’s Greenhouse, it is easy to overlook La Strada. Were it positioned elsewhere, it might have had a chance to earn some buzz, neighborhood walk-in traffic and maybe a little clout. For no other reason but locale, La Strada could be destine to a life in second place. That is unfortunate.
Prior to a Lake Erie Monster’s game we decided to try this place. We arrived early and really enjoyed our meal. Apparently, we weren’t the only ones looking for a new restaurant. By the time we left, most every seat in this warm two-story trattoria was taken. The Monsters may have lost, but we won, with another good Cleveland restaurant.
Michele started with the Wedding Soup, a rich, vibrant version of this traditional Italian favorite. Jeff enjoyed the Buffalo Mozzarella, full of flavor with a nice dense tomato base topped with cracked pepper and olive oil. We both ordered daily specials, despite having already picked a menu item. Michele passed on the stuffed chicken that sounded good with prosciutto and chevre cheese. Instead she had the grilled Bronzini with fennel salad. The fish was perfectly moist with the fragrant fennel salad as a perfect counterpoint. Jeff decided to wait on the menu’s hanger steak and ordered the short rib orchietta that exhibited a touch of almost Marsala sweetness with the raisin sauce. The evening’s only shortcoming was the dessert. We did not ask if it was pre-packaged, but it had a plastic taste and Jeff swears Hershey’s chocolate sauce.
We’re going back to La Strada. We both have a menu item picked out. We may get sidetracked with specials, but we’re also unlikely to order a dessert. We also want to see if something other than Federico Fellini’s “La Strada” is projected on the restaurant’s upper wall.
http://lastradacleveland.com/ 2050 East 4th Street Cleveland, OH 44115 216-861-3664
Lopez
Of all the ethnic restaurants in Cleveland (and boy, do we have a pile!) Mexican cuisine is the one we are least likely to patronize. We love Momocho, but it is atypical. Burritos, tacos, etc. have never been “gotta-have” food for us. Yes, we occasionally visit Mexican restaurants, but VERY infrequently. That is likely the reason we had not been to Lopez for years. We had just seen a performance of “The Seafarer” at Dobama and wanted a place close by. The options are limited on Sunday so we figure, “What the heck!” We booked a reservation.
Michele took a bit more convincing. Her stomach has a difficult time with spicy food and beans, so a typical Mexican restaurant is cause for concern. Ordering takes time because she must carefully review each option to be certain whether one or more ingredient will cause her some digestive issues. Because she wanted a place close to the theatre, she reluctantly agreed.
Jeff had hoped to sample the Black Bean soup special, but when Michele ordered the grilled Caesar Salad, the GREAT waiter indicated that the salad was big. “Would you like to share?” Michele was at a disadvantage, so Jeff agreed and it was very good. The large shaft of Romaine was grilled and topped with Manchego cheese and roasted garlic. Michele was happy and things were looking up.
For her entrée, Michele decided on the Lobster Enchiladas. Rich, creamy lobster and rock shrimp were wrapped inside a soft tortilla and topped with cream sauce and queso fresco with a touch of lemon. It was good, but so rich, much of it went home with us. Jeff ordered the exciting special. A perfectly prepared duck breast was sliced and fanned out under Smoked Gouda quesadilla and topped with a spicy arugula salad. It was excellent. Dessert was a spicy apple crisp with cinnamon ice cream, without question, not your grandma’s crisp!
About half-way through our entrée’s Michele said to Jeff, “Next time we’re here. I want to try the trout…or maybe the roasted salmon.” That was a good sign. Jeff had his eye on the Pulled Pork and Shrimp and Grits. It is likely a return visit will occur sooner then anticipated.
(P.S. – one of the reasons Lopez returned to our radar was because of the addition of Michael Herschman as executive chef. We have loved his food way back to the Cena Copa days, a few steps away. When we heard he landed at Lopez, we again paid attention to this Cleveland Heights landmark. Maybe it was Chef Herschman, maybe it was the time of day, maybe it was almost 30 years of food service, regardless, well be back to Lopez, soon!.)
http://lopezonlee.com/2196 Lee RoadCleveland Heights,OH44118 216-932-9000
Cafe Tandoor
Many years ago, the restaurant that introduced us to the intoxicating flavors ofIndia, the Saffron Patch was beginning to slip in quality. A newIndiarestaurant came on the scene. Café Tandoor opened and became an immediate success. The food was excellent, the staff was helpful and friendly and the dining room was always filled with anxious eaters. Since that time, restaurants serving Indian fare have come, gone and some have prospered. We have been told by reliable sources that Indian Delight onDetroit Avenueis now a kitchen that requires respect. Regardless, Café Tandoor is about a mile from home and we both had an exhausting day. After a few years absence, we thought we’d try it again to see how it has matured.
From the outset, nothing much as changed. Tables, chairs and menu are much the same as when we first visited. The crowds had thinned and there was less a buzz than we remembered. Michele always enjoyed their soups and this visit was no exception. The creamy lentil was as good as she remembered. In the past, the lightly spiced tomato soup was also enjoyable and she often shifted between the two. Jeff moved between the Paneer Pakora and Samosas. He ordered the Paneer this time and they were good, but not what he remembered, a bit of the finesse had gone, but the accompanying chutneys remained excellent.
For dinner, Jeff typically rotated among the wide collection of lamb dishes. Some are curry, some tandoor cooked, but all featured excellent raw materials. This visit he ordered the Lamb Shahi Korma, bits of lamb in a cashew cream sauce. Again, it was good, but like the Paneer, some of the cooking finesse had disappeared. It could also have been warmer, at the end of the dish it was a bit too cool to fully enjoy. Michele likes Saag Paneer, the same non-dairy cheese in Jeff’s appetizer, but this time mixed with creamed spinach and mild spices. She pronounced it average and still prefers Saffron Patch’s version. Together we shared the Saffron Pullao (rice) and Pratha Lachhedar wheat bread, both very good, especially the bread.
While we like Indian food, we are by no means experts. After over twenty-five years of sampling the food, we have come to expect a level of quality and taste. While Café Tandoor established that bar for us years ago, we now believe it has slipped below it. Yes, it is good, but we do not believe it is as good as before. Time marches on and things change. Like the food ofThailandbefore it, we remain on a quest for good food of this variety. Like Map of Thailand, hope springs eternal. Maybe Indian Delight is the answer. We’ll soon find out.
http://cafetandoorcleveland.com/2096 South Taylor Road Cleveland Heights,OH 44118 216-371-8500
Eatin’ in Southern California
Jeff needed to work in Orange County/Los Angeles and took the opportunity to try a few restaurants that had been on his radar. Two James Beard finalists in particular sounded interesting, Wilshire and Fraîche. Both were reported to excel in “New American” cuisine, using fresh ingredients and exemplary cooking technique. He is happy to report that reality met expectations and both meals were excellent.
Fraîche has two locations, one in Culver City and one in Santa Monica on the 3rd Avenue Promenade. Jeff visited the Culver City outpost. It was an inviting space with a casual vibe on a chilly (for LA) Tuesday evening. He started with what would be the best part of the meal; the braised brisket was served with fingerling potatoes over a milky cheese fondue. The beef was fork tender and when combined with the cheese it was an inventive and tasty treat. For the entrée, Monkfish filets were seared crispy outside and moist and tender inside and served over a bed of spinach and whipped potatoes puree with a lemony white wine sauce surrounding the stack. For a diner who rarely orders fish, this was a treat. Dessert was a beautifully formed Chocolate Coulant (basically, a chocolate cake with a warm oozing center of chocolate) served with toffee and peanut butter gelato. It was wonderful!
The next evening, Jeff moved to Santa Monica and despite the temptation to visit the second Fraîche, he and a business associate/friend visited Wilshire on Wilshire Boulevard. Jeff’s friend had dined their before and suggested the semi-enclosed rear patio, that despite the chill in the air was kept toasty warm with portable space heaters. Alfresco dining in November is something new for a Cleveland boy like Jeff!
The meal was excellent. Jeff started with the Little Gem Salad that consisted of greens with cherry tomatoes, bleu cheese, egg and small cubes of excellent bacon. Each forkful was a flavor treat. His dining partner ordered Maggie’s Farm Caesar Salad and pronounced it tangy, aggressive and good. Jeff found a number of things on the menu that sounded good, but the warmth of the Wild Boar Pappardelle was too much of an allure. It hit the spot with al dente noodles and a nice mixture of vegetables and flavorful meat. His friend had what would have been his second choice. The special of the evening was venison loin and it was a beautifully cut with perfect coloring and none of the gamey flavor than can often plague this dish. Dessert was fresh fruit with passion-fruit whipped cream over a cookie base and it was perfect.
Travel can be so much more enjoyable when a good meal ends the day. After battling Los Angeles travel for a few hours each day, both Fraîche and Wilshire proved to be wonderful codas to hectic days.
http://fraicherestaurantla.com/ 9411 Culver Boulevard Culver City, CA 310-839-6800
http://wilshirerestaurant.com/2454 Wilshire Boulevard Santa Monica, CA 90403 310-586-1707
Market Garden Brewery
Since our travels through Great Britain and Ireland, we’ve called food such as is served at the Market Garden Brewery, “pub food.” In almost every city, the pubs served a nice collection of simple, well made and very tasty food. Combined with the great beers and an eclectic clientele, the experiences have waned very little. The memory is that strong.
So where else in Cleveland would you put a place like this? The Westside Market is a perfect location. The food at Market Garden Brewery is just as tasty as their wonderfully crafted beers. This is a great addition to the Cleveland food scene.
First the beer. Jeff tried two; the Festivus (insert Jerry Seinfeld reference) Holiday beer was a spicy, slightly sweet beautifully colored brew. He also tried the Hop Soup, double hop beer that was as bitter (in a good way) as the Festivus was sweet. Both were excellent. Served in a glass that is designed to bring out the best in each, it would be extremely easy to work your way through the whole list, provided a designated driver were at hand!
For our meals, Jeff started with the wedge salad cover with a buttermilk-rich, bleu cheese dressing and smoky, smoky bacon. The real treat, was the oven-cured tomatoes side. When combined with the beautifully crunchy rustic bread, wow what a taste. Michele had a half salad, but topped it with perfectly deep-fried, plump and flavorful rock shrimp. The salad hit the spot. The waitress and manager both stopped by our table to tell us that the pork chop Michele ordered for her entrée was extremely fresh, having just been butchered that morning. It was succulent and flavorful and combined with apples and a pancake base. Jeff decided on the grilled lamb sausage with cheese-potato cakes and grilled onions. It was the right complement to the rich beers. Dessert was huge. (Good thing we share!) Chocolate mousse with chocolate cake and petite fore cookies. We can’t imagine it being better.
We really liked this place and agreed that another visit would be around the corner. The Westside Market area is really becoming a go-to place for food that defines Cleveland. Crop is around the corner, Bar Cento across the street, very close to the Flying Fig. We hope to visit nearby Dragonfly soon. Penzey Spices are even at the corner of West 25th & Lorain Avenue (If you haven’t tried their product, you should!) With a neighborhood like this, you may never need to leave!
http://marketgardenbrewery.com/ 1947 West 25th Street Cleveland, OH 441 216-621-4000
Gusto! Ristorante Italiano
It’s Restaurant Week in Cleveland. Like last year, we took the list and circled the places that we like, but for one reason or another, have not visited recently. Absence could be for a number of reasons. One of us might like the place less than the other; parking is difficult, the last meal was only, “OK.” We all bring these prejudices into the decision making process. Time goes by and a good kick, like Restaurant Week easily sends us back for another taste.
We had hoped to go to Flying Fig, but a table was unavailable. We then tried a second, third and forth place on the list. All were booked. Guess Restaurant Week is working! Finally, we called Gusto and secured the last table before their evening rush started. Unfortunately, Gusto did not have a 3 for $30 special. Their name was inadvertently added to the flyer. The folks apologized and we decided to stay. As compensation, desert was complimentary.
This was indeed a kismet visit, because we enjoyed the meal thoroughly. Michele started with the Caesar salad and declared it, “OK.” Jeff fully enjoyed his gorgonzola salad with poached pear and candied walnuts with a pear vinaigrette. The sweet pear contrasting the tangy cheese was perfect. Michele ordered the Lasagna di Mare, layers of crab meat; rock shrimp and arugla were topped with a collection of mussels and a tomato-cream sauce. It was flawless and made-up for the lackluster Caesar. Jeff has a week spot for pasta with prosciutto, peas and cream sauce. Gusto’s was over veal stuffed tortellini. Rich, you bet! Tasty, ditto! We shared a poached apple with caramel and gelato dessert. Like the whole meal, it was unique and enjoyable.
As we ate, we tried to figure out why it had been a while since our last visit. With such a wealth of eateries in Cleveland, sometimes old favorites slip by. We are going to try to avoid letting that happening again with Gusto! Thank you, Restaurant Week!
http://www.gustolittleitaly.com/ 12022 Mayfield Road Cleveland, OH 44106 216-791-9900
Phil the Fire
It has been years. LONG, painful, unappeasable years since Jeff has had GOOD Chicken and Waffles. Of course, every now and again, a restaurant came along and promised the dish. Jeff didn’t budge. He knew, only Phil knew how to blend ultra-fluffy waffles, brilliantly fried chicken, perfectly mixed syrup and spunky hot sauce into a taste tempting treat. So he waited…and waited…and waited until Phil finally came back.
Phil the Fire is not only a story of good food (we’ll get to that) but it is also a story of a guy who reached for the stars, was punched down only to rise again, better than before.
Phil the Fire was first a wildly popular Sunday Brunch in the Heights, then a marvelous tiny restaurant at Shaker Square, so popular, it was almost impossible to get a table, an expanded bistro near Jacob’s Field and then a famous flop because of some nefarious characters that took advantage of the young restaurateur. To his credit, Phil righted the wrongs brought upon him by these guys and opened a new Phil the Fire in Beachwood. You’ve got to love a guy who so enjoys food he is willing to weather this type of storm.
We first heard that Phil was again going to open a restaurant in spring of 2011. While Michele fully adored the Catfish, it was Jeff who was obsessed by his Chicken and Waffles. He tried others. NONE came even close. Nobody had as fluffy a waffle. None features the perfectly fried chicken. The hot sauce and syrup were always substandard. The unique combination has NEVER reached the heights that Phil defined.
So we waited.
Once Phil opened again, we waited further. We tried relentlessly to again sample Phil’s fare, but the legend had grown too big. We could not get in! 45 minute, 90 minute, two hour waits were quoted. Finally, on this visit, they promised 20 minutes and we could finally sample Phil’s food.
It was worth the wait. Michele reported that the catfish was perfect and as she remembered. Next time she plans on ordering two pieces! (A one or two piece entrée are available.) Jeff quickly sliced up the breast, scattered it over the waffle, drizzled the syrup and hot sauce across the top and dug in. It was as if we had not eaten in a week. The food was gone in an instant. The waiter commented that Jeff ate the dish as Phil defined in the menu. “Of course!” he said. “Phil taught me how to eat this dish YEARS ago!”
Dessert was a forgone conclusion. In the original Shaker Square location, we once sat next to an elderly couple. The woman told us that the Red Velvet Cake at Phil the Fire was just like her mother made. We never knew this lady. The connection to food was visceral. The result was as we expected. Perfect.
So we have finally returned to Phil the Fire and Phil the Fire has returned to us. Let’s celebrate the event and glory in the results. This is food that appeals to everyone and everyone is apparently coming. Phil the Fire is a crowded place, proudly stand in line and wait to enjoy to bounty that is Phil.
http://www.philthefire.com/wp/ 3750 Orange Place Beachwood, OH 44122 216-831-3473
Superior Pho
After a visit to see the massive wood sculptures of Ursula Von Rydingsvard at the Museum of Contemporary Art– Cleveland, we headed downtown for some Pho. Before eating, we stopped into the new Asian Market on East 38th Street between Payne and Superior. The Market is a huge complex filled with galleries, offices and a supermarket dedicated to foodstuffs used in the preparation of food found in Asia. The vegetables and the seafood looked fresh, prices were very fair and the WIDE variety of things needed to make a great meal makes it a fun place to visit and browse. By the end of our tour, we were hungry!
We have heard and read so much about Superior Pho, we thought it was time to forego our favorite No. 1 Pho and try its next-door neighbor. We are, unfortunately not in agreement with the rave views.
To start, we split the Summer Rolls (with shrimp) and did not finish them. The wrapping was VERY rubbery, but the sauce was indeed good, so much so that Michele scooped out a bit more after abandoning her roll.
Michele had a tough time finding something on the menu, so she ended up with Shrimp Fried Rice and found it flavorless and “greasy.” Jeff ordered a Pho, similar to that which he enjoys at No. 1 and it simply offered less flavor. Good, but not enough to warrant a second visit. This was a disappointing experiment.
Some things were good, but next time we have a hankering for Pho, we’re heading to No. 1 Pho.
http://www.superiorpho.com/ 3030 Superior Avenue, East Cleveland, OH 44114 216-781-7462
January 8, 2012 at 9:19 PM Leave a comment