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Eatin’ in New York 2
Prior to traveling to New York, Jeff took a quick look at the 2012 James Beard finalist list. One name jumped out immediately, Tremont. Upon checking the restaurant website, he learned that indeed the place was named for Cleveland’s Tremont area and the three guy behind it all spent time there. So where does a loyal Clevelander dine in the Big Apple? Tremont, of course and it couldn’t have been a better experience. Jeff is not sure why, but octopus is always prepared perfectly in New York. The Tremont version was mixed with garlic sausage, sweet onions, chilies and lemon. The octopus was butter-soft; the sausage would have made any ethnic Tremont butcher proud and the sweet, hot, tart mixture added a host of flavor. He was off to a great start. The glazed Pork Shoulder was crunch on the outside, impossibly tender and flavorful on the inside and the grain mustard added just the right amount of earthiness needed for this heretofore ignored porcine cut of meat. The rutabaga kraut was a wonderful and inventive side. It made Jeff wonder why chefs everywhere aren’t using this tasty, tangy vegetable more. Tremont New York was the perfect place to start his eating adventure in New York and these guys have really done Cleveland proud.
While wandering around TriBeCa, Jeff considered another visit to Locanda Verde, a fabulous place with some of the best nouveau Italian cuisine he’s ever enjoyed. Instead, he decided to try the Tribeca Grill. While Robert De Niro’s ownership may have graced it with initial patronage, good honest food has allowed it to continue. Jeff grabbed a bar seat and simply had the Maytag Bleu Cheese and Endive Salad with a nice glass of Italian wine. It was good, but the most memorable aspect of this visit was the genuine care and friendliness of the lunchtime bartender/server. Lunch was almost over, regardless, he made Jeff feel welcome, wanted and unhurried. His care was reason enough to schedule a return visit for a whole meal.
After a day of work and preceding tickets to a hot evening performance, Jeff squeezed in an early Saturday dinner at Aldea, a Mediterranean eatery that has garnered a bit of notice over the years. He started with the excellent Green and White Asparagus served with seared ramps and a soft-boiled duck egg over the top. A quick slice and chop allowed the gooey egg goodness to envelop the grassy green and spunky white split stems. Ramp, quick becoming a chef’s secret ingredient added a perfect amount of “pungent” to the mix. For dinner, Jeff decided on the Arroz de Pato, a delightfully original blend of rice, duck breast, duck confit, chorizo sausage and citrus. This was heaven on a plate and not a grain of rice went uneaten. The cashew-banana mousse dessert sealed the deal. The next time he is in New York, a return is inevitable.
No trip to New York can be complete without a late-night visit to La Masseria. This is Jeff’s “default” restaurant for after-theatre food in the theatre district. The orecciette with broccoli rabe is his “default” selection. Sometimes soup precedes, sometime salad begins. Regardless of the start, this is a nice place to finish an evening.
New York is a place that many dollars can be spent for and endless variety of food. Much will be good, some will be great. Before planning a trip, careful research will enable you to maximize your value and enjoyment. Save your money, buy good food!
http://tremontnyc.com/51 Bank Street New York, NY 10014 212-488-1019
http://locandaverdenyc.com/ 377Greenwich Street (at N Moore) New York, NY 10013 212-925-3797
(Tribeca Grill website features a danger warning)375 Greenwich Street New York, NY 10013212-941-3900
http://aldearestaurant.com/ 31 W 17th Street New York, NY 100 212-673-7223
http://www.lamasserianyc.com/ 234 W 48th Street New York, NY10036 212-582-2111
The Wine Spot
Since the disappearance of The Grapevine in the Cedar – Fairmount shopping district, Jeff has struggled to buy wine. Bob at the Grapevine was a great help and always stirred him to the best bottle for the money, even while money was never pushed. After having helped with his wine selections over 20 years, he understood Jeff’s palate and made wonderful recommendations. In the subsequent months, wine purchases have been hit or miss. Most of the bottles bought at the Legacy Village Giant Eagle were a disaster. He found a few lucky breaks at Zagara’s wine area, but mostly because he remembered the names and labels from past conversations with Bob. A young man at Whole Foods recommended a delightful bottle of Thief Pinot Noir, but when he went back to talk with him again, he wasn’t around. Such are the problems with corporate retail, especially with something as complex as wine. So it was with a great deal of enthusiasm that Jeff welcomed the news of a new wine store taking over the Seitz-Agin storefront on Lee Road.
From the moment Jeff entered the store, he was made to feel welcome. The owner Adam Fleisher greeted him and discussed the store, his philosophy on wine and beer and some of his preferences. Jeff explained his history with wine and the price levels he prefers. It was an engaging conversation and the two began to assemble a case of wine to replenish his severely barren rack.
The Wine Spot is different than the Grapevine in that Mr. Fleisher has wine from around the world and Jeff has spent 20 years concentrating on wines from western USA (California, Oregon and Washington.) He was going to need a lot of help and Fleisher was willing to provide it. If the first bottle sampled is any indicator, this looks like it will be an excellent relationship. Eve a Chardonnay from Washington State (you’re right, he didn’t stray too far from his comfort zone on the first bottle!) was about as close to perfect as Jeff has had. It was crisp, clean and with just a touch of effervescence. He can’t wait to crack the next bottle!
If you live in the Heights (like us!) have found uneven service and selection at the local supermarkets and miss the Grapevine, the long, dark days are over. The Wine Spot is now here. Give the Spot a shot! We’re sure they will steer you in the right direction, as they did for Jeff.
http://thewinespotonline.com/2271 Lee Road Cleveland Heights,OH 44118 216-342-3642
La Strada
Located on the powerhouse East 4th Street strip of culinary Cleveland, between Michael Simon’s Lola’s and Jonathan Sawyer’s Greenhouse, it is easy to overlook La Strada. Were it positioned elsewhere, it might have had a chance to earn some buzz, neighborhood walk-in traffic and maybe a little clout. For no other reason but locale, La Strada could be destine to a life in second place. That is unfortunate.
Prior to a Lake Erie Monster’s game we decided to try this place. We arrived early and really enjoyed our meal. Apparently, we weren’t the only ones looking for a new restaurant. By the time we left, most every seat in this warm two-story trattoria was taken. The Monsters may have lost, but we won, with another good Cleveland restaurant.
Michele started with the Wedding Soup, a rich, vibrant version of this traditional Italian favorite. Jeff enjoyed the Buffalo Mozzarella, full of flavor with a nice dense tomato base topped with cracked pepper and olive oil. We both ordered daily specials, despite having already picked a menu item. Michele passed on the stuffed chicken that sounded good with prosciutto and chevre cheese. Instead she had the grilled Bronzini with fennel salad. The fish was perfectly moist with the fragrant fennel salad as a perfect counterpoint. Jeff decided to wait on the menu’s hanger steak and ordered the short rib orchietta that exhibited a touch of almost Marsala sweetness with the raisin sauce. The evening’s only shortcoming was the dessert. We did not ask if it was pre-packaged, but it had a plastic taste and Jeff swears Hershey’s chocolate sauce.
We’re going back to La Strada. We both have a menu item picked out. We may get sidetracked with specials, but we’re also unlikely to order a dessert. We also want to see if something other than Federico Fellini’s “La Strada” is projected on the restaurant’s upper wall.
http://lastradacleveland.com/ 2050 East 4th Street Cleveland, OH 44115 216-861-3664
Lopez
Of all the ethnic restaurants in Cleveland (and boy, do we have a pile!) Mexican cuisine is the one we are least likely to patronize. We love Momocho, but it is atypical. Burritos, tacos, etc. have never been “gotta-have” food for us. Yes, we occasionally visit Mexican restaurants, but VERY infrequently. That is likely the reason we had not been to Lopez for years. We had just seen a performance of “The Seafarer” at Dobama and wanted a place close by. The options are limited on Sunday so we figure, “What the heck!” We booked a reservation.
Michele took a bit more convincing. Her stomach has a difficult time with spicy food and beans, so a typical Mexican restaurant is cause for concern. Ordering takes time because she must carefully review each option to be certain whether one or more ingredient will cause her some digestive issues. Because she wanted a place close to the theatre, she reluctantly agreed.
Jeff had hoped to sample the Black Bean soup special, but when Michele ordered the grilled Caesar Salad, the GREAT waiter indicated that the salad was big. “Would you like to share?” Michele was at a disadvantage, so Jeff agreed and it was very good. The large shaft of Romaine was grilled and topped with Manchego cheese and roasted garlic. Michele was happy and things were looking up.
For her entrée, Michele decided on the Lobster Enchiladas. Rich, creamy lobster and rock shrimp were wrapped inside a soft tortilla and topped with cream sauce and queso fresco with a touch of lemon. It was good, but so rich, much of it went home with us. Jeff ordered the exciting special. A perfectly prepared duck breast was sliced and fanned out under Smoked Gouda quesadilla and topped with a spicy arugula salad. It was excellent. Dessert was a spicy apple crisp with cinnamon ice cream, without question, not your grandma’s crisp!
About half-way through our entrée’s Michele said to Jeff, “Next time we’re here. I want to try the trout…or maybe the roasted salmon.” That was a good sign. Jeff had his eye on the Pulled Pork and Shrimp and Grits. It is likely a return visit will occur sooner then anticipated.
(P.S. – one of the reasons Lopez returned to our radar was because of the addition of Michael Herschman as executive chef. We have loved his food way back to the Cena Copa days, a few steps away. When we heard he landed at Lopez, we again paid attention to this Cleveland Heights landmark. Maybe it was Chef Herschman, maybe it was the time of day, maybe it was almost 30 years of food service, regardless, well be back to Lopez, soon!.)
http://lopezonlee.com/2196 Lee RoadCleveland Heights,OH44118 216-932-9000
Cafe Tandoor
Many years ago, the restaurant that introduced us to the intoxicating flavors ofIndia, the Saffron Patch was beginning to slip in quality. A newIndiarestaurant came on the scene. Café Tandoor opened and became an immediate success. The food was excellent, the staff was helpful and friendly and the dining room was always filled with anxious eaters. Since that time, restaurants serving Indian fare have come, gone and some have prospered. We have been told by reliable sources that Indian Delight onDetroit Avenueis now a kitchen that requires respect. Regardless, Café Tandoor is about a mile from home and we both had an exhausting day. After a few years absence, we thought we’d try it again to see how it has matured.
From the outset, nothing much as changed. Tables, chairs and menu are much the same as when we first visited. The crowds had thinned and there was less a buzz than we remembered. Michele always enjoyed their soups and this visit was no exception. The creamy lentil was as good as she remembered. In the past, the lightly spiced tomato soup was also enjoyable and she often shifted between the two. Jeff moved between the Paneer Pakora and Samosas. He ordered the Paneer this time and they were good, but not what he remembered, a bit of the finesse had gone, but the accompanying chutneys remained excellent.
For dinner, Jeff typically rotated among the wide collection of lamb dishes. Some are curry, some tandoor cooked, but all featured excellent raw materials. This visit he ordered the Lamb Shahi Korma, bits of lamb in a cashew cream sauce. Again, it was good, but like the Paneer, some of the cooking finesse had disappeared. It could also have been warmer, at the end of the dish it was a bit too cool to fully enjoy. Michele likes Saag Paneer, the same non-dairy cheese in Jeff’s appetizer, but this time mixed with creamed spinach and mild spices. She pronounced it average and still prefers Saffron Patch’s version. Together we shared the Saffron Pullao (rice) and Pratha Lachhedar wheat bread, both very good, especially the bread.
While we like Indian food, we are by no means experts. After over twenty-five years of sampling the food, we have come to expect a level of quality and taste. While Café Tandoor established that bar for us years ago, we now believe it has slipped below it. Yes, it is good, but we do not believe it is as good as before. Time marches on and things change. Like the food ofThailandbefore it, we remain on a quest for good food of this variety. Like Map of Thailand, hope springs eternal. Maybe Indian Delight is the answer. We’ll soon find out.
http://cafetandoorcleveland.com/2096 South Taylor Road Cleveland Heights,OH 44118 216-371-8500
Corporate Food
A few weeks ago, we went to Carrabba’s Italian Grill for the first time. Last week, we had a quick lunch at Champp’s. Because we do not typically patronize these places, it was an interesting reminder of why we stopped eating at corporate food outlets (our term for high-priced, fast food.)
First, there is a plastic friendliness grilled into the employees, almost as plastic as the surroundings. Deep down, you know the employee is not happy and under normal circumstances, would not greet you with an overzealous, “Hello! Welcome to [fill-in the blank]!” So why do it? It’s a corporate thing, just like the Manager who painfully travels from table to table; interrupting conversations to remark that the [fill-in the blank] you just ordered is his favorite. He then asks, “Is everything perfect?” or something equally scripted and moves along. You know his insincerity is real, because moments before he told table 36 that her [fill-in the blank] was his favorite. At normal restaurants, comments and queries from the staff and management seem real and a genuine caring is attached to the questions. They understand that your approval means a return visit, not an “atta-boy” from Corporate.
The main reason we don’t frequent corporate food outlets is the food. It is not bad. It is just not that good. The food has been created and sampled and tested to offend the fewest amount of people as possible. It has also been designed for preparation by a wide variety of cooking skill. To us, this was clearly brought to a head when two chains opened, Maggiano’s and Bahama Breeze outlets a few years ago. During their initial weeks in town, the food was actually very good. After a month or so, the quality begins to slip to a point where you must stop eating there. When we asked about this phenomenon, we were told that Corporate sends expert chefs to new locations to train the staff. In the first few weeks, work is done under the watchful eye of a talented individual, or someone they trained directly. As weeks go on and people quit, the skill level deteriorates. Finally, the kitchen is left to its own devices and slips into a well-established mediocrity.
Contrast this with better chains. We have eaten at McCormick & Schmick’s a few times and each visit was very good. They are priced a bit higher than the others corporate chains, but they appear to have secured the talent of a real chef in the kitchen and it shows on the plate. The same can be said for Mon Ami Gabi. (No venue is located in Cleveland.) Food is honestly good because they allow the locale to customize the place to the customer base. The Original Pancake House may be the best example in Cleveland. While a chain, there is little or no indicator in the quality (except their sub-par coffee.) The menu is the same, but this is not mass produced food for the lowest common denominator. Instead, this is “come back because we make great breakfast,” food.
We know a lot of people like these places. The horribly over-priced, blasé food at the Cheesecake Factory, the generally mediocre fare at Applebee’s, the deteriorating slop at Friday’s and the “we don’t even know how to explain” food at PF Chang’s hopefully is leading those eaters to try better, well prepared food at privately run local restaurants. If they do not graduate to something better, we wonder what they are eating at home. We know. Don’t ask.
http://www.mccormickandschmicks.com/
